Alright, I read the past forums about this topic and got really confused. Before I go and screw something up in my car, maybe I should just ask about what I want to do. I really only want to replace the rear speakers, not install anything else just yet, but I am getting a bit desperate. I put pioneers 3 way in the front, and know I'm hurting for the same great sound in the back.. I attempted to install a set of 6x9's in it once, and everytime I tried a differenbt wire combination it killed the battery and I'd have to jump it off my charger. So I guess I have 2 questions A)Which wire would I splice to make the 6x9's work, B)Is there a way to remove whatever is powering the two unneeded wires. I'm running off the factory head (2001 cavy) so what should I do?


There are families on the road, keep racing on the tracks... or late at night.

there are four wires coming out of the factory clip? Is this a monsoon system?

Premium amplified system. Many of the 2000+ cars have it.

The rear speakers are amplified (woofer and tweeters separately wired, thus the 4 wires). There's an amp behind the carpet on the driver's side of the trunk. Tap the wires as they go INTO the amp, and use those.

Once I get home, I can give you wire colours.

lenko,
by tapping the wires going into the amp and running the 6 x 9s off of that, wouldnt that bypass the amp? what im saying is, wouldnt u want to hook it to wires coming out of the amp so that u can use the power the amp is making ?
hope that made sense

thanks

I think Lenko's right b/c the audio going into the amp would be high and low. the highs coming out are for the tweeter and then lows for the 6x9's woofer, which means if you tap into the amp for an aftermarket speaker (most of which have just one positive and one negative terminal), you may only get highs or lows. It makes sense anyways. But then, is it possible to splice the woofer's wires and connect to a small sub? That factory amp probably doesn't pump a whole lot of power of though. Hmmmm...


There are families on the road, keep racing on the tracks... or late at night.

Left Rear (+) Brown
Left Rear (-) Yellow
Right Rear (+) Dark Blue
Right Rear (-) Light Blue


Those are the wires that you want. The other 4 are for the tweeters.


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Sweet thanks man, but will I get equal sound out of it? Or just lows?


There are families on the road, keep racing on the tracks... or late at night.

You would only get lows. I wonder if there is a way to hook up both the tweeter and the woofer output to the single speaker? If you hook up both the tweeter + and the woofer + to the new speark + and the same with the -, I'm wondering what that would do to the amp. I'm not sure if it would turn off because of feedback or not. Interesting. Might be worth testing out.

I have no Idea, but would it be alright to do what lenko said and just use the pre-amp input? It may not be amplified, but how powerful could the amp be?


There are families on the road, keep racing on the tracks... or late at night.

that would work but it would be quieter than the original. Ihave no idea how powerful the amp is.

Does any company make 6x9's with high and low input? I guy I work with said they do, but I think he's yanking my chain.


There are families on the road, keep racing on the tracks... or late at night.

Well, Infinity makes 6x9 Kappa's that have external crossovers. The crossovers may have two inputs on them. My JL crossovers have dual input.

schembo2000 wrote:that would work but it would be quieter than the original. Ihave no idea how powerful the amp is.

well like he said.... it would play lower than the original, cause the stock amplifier runs 1-2ohms...
and after market usually runs about 2-8ohm a higher resistance.
so yes, you have to bypass the stock amp..

im going to put an interior amp.













GOT ECOTEC?

SO it would probably be best to either A) get the speakers with high/low input, or B) just find the pre-amp wires. Is it possible to do something like run the amp powered lows into a 6x9 (with just a woofer), and then use surface tweeters or a set of small speakers to run the amp powered highs?


There are families on the road, keep racing on the tracks... or late at night.

I think the signal is filtered at the stock headunit, not at the factory amp.

Reason I say this..is I have an aftermarket headunit, aftermarket 6x9's...and I never bypassed the factory amp and it plays full sound just fine..


drivers side


passenger side


If someone knows for sure where the signal is filtered at (stock radio or stock amp) please feel free to show it. I'm not 100% on it.



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replace the headunit, and run new wires to your rear speakers.

My premium factory sound system actually sounded awesome for stock equipment, your factory radio doesn't have enought power to make a set of aftermarket 6x9's sound good, so replace the headunit and get some better power going to your rears. Or run a 4channel amp to all your speakers, and you can use the wires coming out of the factory clip to get your signal using a Audiocontrol LOC6, it will combine the highs and lows and give you full-range output.



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James (ROLN19S) (JuicyJ) wrote:replace the headunit, and run new wires to your rear speakers.

My premium factory sound system actually sounded awesome for stock equipment, your factory radio doesn't have enought power to make a set of aftermarket 6x9's sound good, so replace the headunit and get some better power going to your rears. Or run a 4channel amp to all your speakers, and you can use the wires coming out of the factory clip to get your signal using a Audiocontrol LOC6, it will combine the highs and lows and give you full-range output.

if you replace the headunit, there is no need to run new wires.


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Okay, so check this out, I bought a pair of 6x9 speakers. they have a 3 way tweeter inside with a clearly visible pos and neg lead. Is it possible to just cut the leads into the tweeter for the highs, and then hook the lows to the standard terminals? speaker and splice them with the factory wires? If I do this, would I get the same level of sound as I did in the factory speakers? Is this insanity even reccommended?


There are families on the road, keep racing on the tracks... or late at night.

It's at the headunit. Actually, i want to say the tweeter part puts out 4 ohm, but very little watts, and the woofer part puts out 10 ohm, the regular wattage that any other stock gm deck puts out.


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Jamie S. wrote:Okay, so check this out, I bought a pair of 6x9 speakers. they have a 3 way tweeter inside with a clearly visible pos and neg lead. Is it possible to just cut the leads into the tweeter for the highs, and then hook the lows to the standard terminals? speaker and splice them with the factory wires? If I do this, would I get the same level of sound as I did in the factory speakers? Is this insanity even reccommended?

there are going to be resistors and what not attached in there somewhere...i personally wouldn't bother with doing that.


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Okay, so I think I found the factory amp. Unfortunately, I have no idea which wires are which. And I guess that means that the high and low outputs are seperated at the head unit. That sucks. So aside from buying a new head unit, what should I do to get as good as sound as possible?


There are families on the road, keep racing on the tracks... or late at night.

Can someone list me off the wire colours on the amp? I can tell you what they are from there.

I have the Monsoon amp... which has all four channels running to it (from the factory deck), then eight outputs to the eight speakers. But there's no point in listing my wires off

Lenko, John Lenko wrote:Author: John Lenko
Date: 01-21-04 11:53 AM



Ok, according to the GM service manual I have... (2000 release... but all the radios are wired similarly since then... until they introduced OnStar, which doesn't actually affect the speaker wire colours)....

Off the radio harness:

Left front +: Tan wire, pin A8 (to E2 on amplifier)
Left front -: Gray, pin A9 (E3)
Right front +: Light Green, pin B11 (F1)
Right front -: Dark Green, pin B10 (E1)
Left rear +: Brown, pin B8 (E6)
Left rear -: Yellow, pin B9 (E7)
Right rear +: Dark Blue, pin A11 (E5)
Right rear -: Light Blue, pin A10 (E4)

On the amplifier harness:
(inputs are as noted above), outputs:

Left front tweeter +: Black wire, pin E13
Left front tweeter -: Yellow, pin E14
Left front speaker +: Dark blue, pin E15
Left front tweeter -: Light blue, pin E16
Right front tweeter +: Light green, pin F2
Right front tweeter -: Purple, pin F3
Right front speaker +: Orange, pin F7
Right front speaker -: Dark green, pin F6
Left rear tweeter +: Tan, pin F15
Left rear tweeter -: White, pin F16
Left rear subwoofer +: Dark blue/white, pin F5
Left rear subwoofer -: Light green/black, pin F4
Right rear tweeter +: Red, pin F14
Right rear tweeter -: Tan, pin F13
Right rear subwoofer +: Light blue/black, pin F11
Right rear subwoofer -: Dark green, pin F10

Note that that includes RPO radio code U85.. which is the Monsoon radio I think.. so.. if you don't have that.. you won't see ALL those wires on the amplifier.. you'll just have wires from the radio straight to the speakers (esp. in the front)... sure fire way to check - look at the colours of the wires to the speakers themselves.

I hope that helps!! Let me know if it does.. because I'll add it to my '2k+ audio page' when I finally get around to updating it

Awesome! that is exactly what i was needing. Thanks.


There are families on the road, keep racing on the tracks... or late at night.

the after market headunit would still send its signal to the amp, so yes you would need to run new wires. Why half-ass it?



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