be carefull hitting dry nitrous on wot switch when cruising with autoshift. downshift takes long enough to pile up nitrous in intake giving a lot larger dose than expected. my engine is now trash
chris donaldson wrote:be carefull hitting dry nitrous on wot switch when cruising with autoshift. downshift takes long enough to pile up nitrous in intake giving a lot larger dose than expected. my engine is now trash
you are completely 100% wrong. nitrous doesn't "pile up" and even if i could it wouldn't because of a downshift..... nitrous sees its either at WOT or its not, if your at WOT and its spraying the nitrous doesn't build up in the manifold and wait for the downshift to finish then go in the motor, if the throttle is all the way its spraying and the engine is sucking it in weather your downshifting or not.
Hey. if your cruising at 1,500 rpm hit the gas and it takes a full second to downshift then obviously your injecting it at way to low of rpm. that is up until it down shifts. when it kicked down I heard 2 pops. 2 holes in block. pile up in intake wasnt what i meant sorry
a better idea would have been to wait until it downshifts then go full throttle. Or go full throttle let it downshift and hit a switch.
or get a proper safe seup with a sindow switch which would have completely prevented the problem
chris donaldson wrote:Hey. if your cruising at 1,500 rpm hit the gas and it takes a full second to downshift then obviously your injecting it at way to low of rpm. that is up until it down shifts. when it kicked down I heard 2 pops. 2 holes in block. pile up in intake wasnt what i meant sorry
they make window switches for a reason dude.
you shouldn't be spraying that low of an rpm anyway
Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!
do most people run a window switch on an automatic tranny?
i do
Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!
i just figured since you dont lift off of gas at shift points it will still be at wot and shouldnt be a problem. I dont know what rpm its at after shifting but it should be high enough.
Back on topic..
There's a vacuum line that (stock) goes from the fuel pressure regulator to the throttle body. You take off this line, and replace it with two lines... from ports on the ZEX control box to each spot. The ZEX control box cuts the vacuum on the FPR, boosting your fuel pressure. It's a pretty simple way to control it, actually.... works, until you hit the max speed at 108 mph, and the fuel cuts off. Then your engine goes boom.. but that's another story...
Actually the Zex kit is designed to bleed a small amount of the bottle pressure to the FPR to raise your fuel pressure. The stock FPR is a 1:1 ratio, meaning it will raise fuel pressure 1 psi for every 1 psi of possitive pressure it sees.
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