3400 Final Stage - Third Generation Forum
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This is carried over from "3400 3rd Gen" which has become a huge post and it is time to retire it and start over .
As of this Friday I have finished all the wiring except for the crank trigger and mag sensor . I am still figuring out how to run the EVAP canister purge solenoid ( I may have an idea on how to operate it as I write this ) . The car is ready to reinstall the battery after I disconnect the fuel pump relay ( don't need gas shooting everywhere ) . I have all of my main line ( A/C , power steering , and fuel ) but I am holding off of the heater hoses until I really need them .
I have the materials to fabricate the lower dogbone mount , but ran into a snag this morning when I started getting everything together . Apparently when the garage was cleaned out someone messed up my clutter and now I am totally confused on where anything is and have not located some of the pieces for the mount . So at work this coming Sunday night I will rummage through the scrap bin again .
The wiring still needs the loom reinstalled but it is a complete harness right now . I can now actually hook up to the TEC3 when the battery is installed and it will communicate with the laptop ( FINALLY ) .
Some Recap Photo's :
n
Before the madness
After
Another view
Parts thought to work did work
This is'nt a normal V6
This is the only real piece of fabrication involved in the swap ( which I would have had done today but parts went missing ) .
I am going to pull the stock gauges later on and use complete Autometer setup and that includes redoing the dash for a gauge pod above the center vents . Right now the big things are to go to the local rubber shop and have the lengthen the hoses or shorten them . I am looking to have the car up and running in the next 2 weeks now . The biggest problem will be the exhaust . <br>
<a href="http://users.adelphia.net/~rdbryant1/index.html.html"><img src="http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/mrgoodwrench/personal_pic.jpg" border=4></a>
Nice, first pic of the actual problem with the lower mount. Do you just plan on cutting that piece off, and just weld another one a couple of inches over?
Glad to hear the wiring is finally working out for you. <br>
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ClubCav.com
are you going to move the engine mount over in the fab pic? looks liek it will hit the tire.
otherwise good job man cant wait should run hard <br>
farmerz24
rite on man keep us posted <br>
It's all mine
POWERED BY: FORK
good luck with the rest of it, when this thing is done its gonna be soo sweet!! <br>
Hey, nice swap man.
I'm building a 3400 right now, and have been looking at engine management options. Why did you choose the Tec3? If you could tell me more about it, that'd be great.
Also, how'd you get the LS1 injectors to work?
Good job. <br>
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Looks great... good luck with the dogbone. <br>
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I have figured out that the dogbone can be made using several pieces of flat steel . I am going to use a 1/8" to 3/16" to make a plate that will bolt into the 2 bottom holes on the oil pan . After that I may use a piece of angle to bolt it into a 3rd hole on the crank pulley side of the oil pan . If possible I may make this piece out of one piece of flat steel and just bend a tab up on the end to connect to the 3rd hole . These holes were originally used for the motor mount on cars such as the Monte Carlo and Impala's , so I figure it should hold up to a dogbone . If you look at the last picture of the dogbone mount you can see the 3rd hole on the side of the oil pan in the center ( directly under the crank pulley ) . These will be the mounting areas for the new mount . From there I can use another piece of flat steel and bend it into the shape I need . From there I can bolt the dogbone to the ears and position it into place and place a couple tack welds . Remove the new mount and then run the final beads of weld . I may use a plug weld also just to make sure it does'nt break lose later on .
The mounts actually don't hit anything . The upper mount is very close to being mounted , but I will be removing the front bumper and cover to install the stud plate the way I would like . The lower mount actually should be quite easy to make ( I will post pictures when it is finished ) . I am also going to take pic.s of the upper stud plate being made and installed . This should give a good idea of how little is required for the fabrication .
The LS1 injectors will work but they did require more work to install . I do not have any photos at this time on what I did . When I got the idea to use the injectors I ordered some and when they arrived I saw that they were almost 1/8" to 1/2" shorter than the original 3400 injectors . I also had to clearance the fuel rail and remake the fuel rail bracket so I could bolt the fuel rail to the manifold . The injectors would be great to use with a NOS Nozsle install because you would be installing a ring around the injector that is 1/2" tall . This would bring the WS6/LS1 injector up to almost original hiegth for the 3400 . I will take some pictures of the injectors and the pieces I made also where I clearanced the fuel rail . It will also include photos of the spots on the intake that needed to be ground down to let the fuel rail sit lower .
It does require some work to get the injectors in and you also have to replace the injector hookups to a Bosch connector . I will be able to switch everything back with the original hold downs when I install nitrous on the car . I am going to run the Nozsle system from NOS so everything should work out later on . This will also open me up to a larger selection and more readily available injectors ( everyone carries injectors for the LS1 and WS6 ) . They also are about 10 LB's over the stock 3400 injectors .
The reason I went with TEC3 is some of the features they had were what I was looking for . Also they are setup to use all the sensors on the 3400 , except for one and that is the 24X crank sensor . Other than that you could actually splice into the stock harness and replace the crank sensor with the new one you recieve from Electromotive .
I checked with the other companies and I was'nt satisfied with what I had seen . The TEC3 can be programmed to operate nitrous retard when you turn the nitorus on and with a nitrous controller it can also activate the nitrous at any given parameter . It also can be programmed for wastegate activation and other peripherials . I believe that with this setup I should be able to get the most from the engine as well . Right now a shop in Colonial Beach, Va. has contacted me because I would have actually bought it from them but picked it up at Electromotive . But they contacted me and said that if I need any help to call them or stop by . Afterwrds when the car is up and running I can take it to them for dyno run's to fully tune the engine .
But as it stands the big projects left are the hoses and the mounts ( not to forget the exhaust ) . I will be taking the hoses to a company called Cardinal Rubber because they can replace the lines with what ever length is needed and recrimp the hoses ( no hose clamps ) . This can be done on all the hoses A/C , Power Sterring , and Fuel . <br>
<a href="http://users.adelphia.net/~rdbryant1/index.html.html"><img src="http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/mrgoodwrench/personal_pic.jpg" border=4></a>
That sounds awesome man. You'll be excited to hear that a lot of new stuff is coming out for the 3400.
Cam Blanks are going to be available in the spring, so your cam grind can be whatever you want.
New injectors that'll fit stock size, at 45#/hr will be introduced in the late winter, early spring.
A twin-screw supercharger will be introduced. This thing is amazing, builds full boost at 1800 rpm, can hold 35psi from 1800rpm-7000rmp, and actually keep intake temps cool. No need for an i/c, it's amazing.
Possibly billet aluminum upper intake manifold.
Complete valvetrain, even though the LS1 springs/locks/retainers will work.
Just keeping you on the 3400 dl.
ALSO, could you email me (PontiacGT2K@yahoo.com) more details as to how you got the injectors to work fine, also where you got the TEC3, how much, how it works. That'd be great, thanks a lot!
Well people I will have some new pic.s of the lower mount fabrication very soon . I just have to wait till tonight at work when I can finish bending a piece of metal ( THICK metal ) .
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<a href="http://users.adelphia.net/~rdbryant1/index.html.html"><img src="http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/mrgoodwrench/personal_pic.jpg" border=4></a>
Could you email me some specifics on how you got the injectors to work, as well as your experiences with the stand alone e-manage setup? Thanks! ( PontiacGT2K@yahoo.com )
Here is the bracket that will let the 3400 use the stock Cavalier dogbone .
Here is the bracket on the car with the dogbone in place with the rather to long of a bolt in place .
I have other pictures but the DAMN disc screwed up and I have to take them over again . But I slapped a coat of paint on it to keep it from rusting and that really made it look good .
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<a href="http://users.adelphia.net/~rdbryant1/index.html.html"><img src="http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/mrgoodwrench/personal_pic.jpg" border=4></a>
that looks pretty good.
Any possibility of ordering those from you?
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I wanna use Flash for my sig but it doesn't work.
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Aoccdrnig to a rscheearch at Cmabrigde Uinervtisy, it deosn't mttaer in waht oredr the ltteers in a wrod are, the olny iprmoetnt tihng is taht the frist and lsat ltteer be at the rghit pclae. The rset can be a total mses and you can sitll raed it wouthit porbelm. Tihs is bcuseae the huamn mnid deos not raed ervey lteter by istlef, but the wrod as a wlohe.
Fcuknig amzanig huh?
I deleted one of the earlier pic.s so I could show a better picture of the lower dogbone bracket mounted . It is also using the original bolt that held the dogobone to the Cavalier's bracket .
No this is not the color it is going to stay I just painted it that color because it was all I had ( but it is a high contrast color against all the dark colors so it does stand out ) .
The color will be black after it is sandblasted . <br>
<a href="http://users.adelphia.net/~rdbryant1/index.html.html"><img src="http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/mrgoodwrench/personal_pic.jpg" border=4></a>
Sure it's strong enough? How thick is that metal? <br>
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You changed something for the Upper one too?? Right?? Sorry I do not want to read all the 30 pages again.
If you made the custom brackets I would buy them from you too!! Do you take Paypal?
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Sterophile, there is nothing fabbed for the upper mount. He just had to make a plate with studs to bolt the Alero mount to.
For anyone with a 95-97 car with a 2.2, you will be able to use the upper mount that is in the car already, and you can use the bracket that goes on the 94-98 Grand Am 3100 motor.
That dogbone mount is similar to the one I've been working on, except mine is one piece out to the outside of the mount, with the two vertical pieces welded on.
Nice work Rob. Can't wait to see that thing running!
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There is nothing changed on the upper mount , to use the Alero upper engine mount I had to remove the Cavalier's upper engine mount bracket . To mount the Alero mount in the Cavalier I made up a plate with studs welded to it and removed the bumper cover and bumper to gain access to the inside of the frame rail . From there I already had the holes drilled for the studs to pass through the frame rail and the plug weld holes drilled as well . Once I had the plate positioned I ran the nuts down on the studs and pulled it up into place and welded up the plug holes .
All of this was not done on the fly . I had made the plate and used the upper mount to figure out where the holes had to be on the plate , and then figured about how much the curve of the inside frame rail was going to affect the plate . From there I played it safe with the offset of the studs to the center of the plate and did several test fits and trimmed and ground on the plate until it finally fit . To work in the frame railand place the mount in there I ended up welding a 3/4" angle iron on to it that was about 3' long . I did not do a permanent weld on it because once in place I had to be able to break the weld loose from the stud plate . Several times I had the plate break off inside the frame rail and had to fish it out when it would get wedged in place ( that is what would break the weld on the angle iron ) . There is a spot in the frame rail that is recessed in so the tire does'nt not hit the frame rail and it also is in the way . Most people will know this spot when they lift their car up and see the tire has been hitting the inner fenderwell in one spot . I ended up having to grind the HELL out of the plate to have a cutout to miss the recess in the side of the frame rail .
How thick is the metal for the lower engine strut mount . It is 2 times thicker than the metal used in the factory bracket for the dogbone . I was able to lift the engine with the jack on it and it did'nt flex any .
In the unfinished picture most people may wonder why it is cutout bewteen the two rear bolts . It is'nt for looks it is cut out to avoid hitting the oilpan . Also after seeing it on the car and working on the car today the Chevrolet Orange mount is starting to grow on me . I may sand blast the mount and repaint it the same color again .
It seems that enough people have been asking about the lower mount . I will check into seeing what can be done about making more of them . I may also work on making the stud plates for the upper Alero engine mount . It may not be right away but I will see what I can do . Afterwards I will have a better idea on what the price will be . I am also probably going to look into trying to design a better upper mount that is polyurethane as well . But that will be later on because it will take some more time to find outprices for it and if it can be done .
Next in planning is to knock out the hoses and get them hooked up then knock out what is left with the fuel rail and intake ( have to remove the EGR valve ) .
I will try to post more pictures as soon as I get some room somewhere . <br>
<a href="http://users.adelphia.net/~rdbryant1/index.html.html"><img src="http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/mrgoodwrench/personal_pic.jpg" border=4></a>
If you need it I can host some pics for you, just email them to me.
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ClubCav.com
Right now I am getting a small webpage setup to use for uploading my pic.s on the web and link off of them . <br>
<a href="http://users.adelphia.net/~rdbryant1/index.html.html"><img src="http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/mrgoodwrench/personal_pic.jpg" border=4></a>
Alright, just giving you a free option.
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ClubCav.com
Believe it or not I checked and I get a free webspace from my internet service provider for having an account through them . It is'nt bad I just need to make up a webpage that I can upload the pic.s on and then link off of it as someone would do through CarDomain.com . <br>
<a href="http://users.adelphia.net/~rdbryant1/index.html.html"><img src="http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/mrgoodwrench/personal_pic.jpg" border=4></a>
That's what I have. I just get 60 megs though mine, but they only allow 10 megs per site, so I have a couple. It's not bad at all when all you ever upload is pics, just use something like ftp commander makes it alot faster.
For the fuel lines I haven't been able to find a place around here that would extend them. So I'm thinking I may just cut the lines and use tube nuts, flare the stock lines, and then run braided fuel lines from there. Should look fine as long as I cut them far enough back so they don't show. Then I just have to worry about the connection to the fuel rail, which I hope won't be that big of a deal. <br>
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