I installed my front sway bar the other day, OMG what a pain in the buttox. first, the bushings holding the bar to the sub-frame were too big, and i couldn't physically get the clamps back on, so a quick trip too the band saw fixed that problem. Trust me, i tired for close too 3 hours to get one side on, and nothing worked. so then I get that all done, bolt the subframe brace back up, and go too puton the endlinks. I got one side loosly put on, without too much of a struggle. Then I went to the other side. OMFG. I couldn't get enough clerance between the swaybar and the tie-rod to put in the end-links, so I disconnected the tierod, , and still didn't have enough clerance, so out came the jack. 5 minutes later the endlinks were on, and tightened, both sides. Then i went too re-attach the tie-rod, and i couldn't get the nut on, cause the shaft just spun a bunch. out came the pliers, and the rat@!#$, and that took care of that problem. The only problem I see, is that the tierod is rubbing on the sway bar, but it doesn't seem to be affecting the car in any way. The bar would bend a bit when the car was jacked up and the tires off the ground, but I checked it when it was back on the ground and it was fine. Overall, handling is MUCH inproved, and the car is sooooooooo much quicker too start turning when you jerk the wheel. There is no lean then turn at all, its all jsut turn
you shouldnt have had to cut the D-bushing at all , they are a wedge fit in
you didnt put the bar in upside down did you ??
[quote=97cavie24ls(JDM&00s/c sedans™)]you shouldnt have had to cut the D-bushing at all , they are a wedge fit in
you didnt put the bar in upside down did you ??
Man that would suck. It is a possibility though. I did it on another car, non jbody, with an eibach setup. Had the same probs you desicribes until i figureed out it was backassedwards.
2004 Cavalier, 2.2L Ecotec
1965 El Camino, 396 BBC, 14:1, 800 BHP
I took out the stock one, matched up the bends in the stock one and the eibach one, and then installed the eibach one in the same way I removed the stock one. I was thinking that also, and if i had put it in the other way, there would have been NO room to get the endlinks on.
With the D-bushing, upside down or not it wouldn't have made a difference. The bushings were just too damn tall. I didn't have the physical strength with my hands, OR a c-clamp to push them down far enough to get the bolt in. Plus I compared them to the stock bushings, and they were over 1/4 inch taller. so I just cut them to remove enough material to bring them down to the stock size bushings and it all went together quite well, with still providing enough resistance, so I know I didn't cut too much off.
oh well, if i did, it doesn't seem to be affecting it at all, it stil does exactly what I thought it would. The only difference in the driveability is there is a new banging noise over the short jerky bumps, but that sounds like it is more from the exhaust, which has never really fit right too begin with. it sounds more hallow, and i would expect if it was from the sway bar it would sound more dense. Plus the car has been sitting for the better part of a year, and the exhaust seems to be hanging differently now. Other then that it sounds the same, drives the same, and feels a WHOLE lot better
yeah it could be the sway bar banging around , the bottom on the has a odd shape and that shape has to fit into the same shape in the frame
that might be why you had problems with them going in
when i did the g/fs , the brackets i had to kinda push them down a little , then try to get the bolt to start and then use a air ratchet to run the bolt donw the rest of the way
unfortunatly her cav has alot of front end noise now , which i think is due to the D brackets only being bolted down on 1 side , instead of 2
Me and My Father in law had the same problem. The bushings Eibach gives to replace the factory ones don't fit into the brackets. Had to have them cut down a little. Check your sway bar again it shouldn't be rubbing the tie rod.
