The pump :
http://www.racetronix.com/RX-F99-FPKG-2.html
What you get with the pump kit:
Your fuel pump sender:
Where to start? Pry the red lock tab out of the connector and press the two tabs inward torward the connector and pry the connector out.
Remove the level sensor (treat with care, can get damaged, don't bend the rod)
Unpin the level sensor from the connector:
remove the gray locking tab in the middle of the connector
Insert the paper clip into the face of the connector and gentle slide out the wire from the back (do this to the two sensor wires they are not pin specific)
Carefully pry out the suction jet fitting at the base of the fuel pump module
Remove the fuel hose ( remove the clamp slice down the side of the hose)
Seperate the two halves of the fuel pump:
With the two halves seperated the pump should slide upwards with some force, you may need to lube up the three mounting points that the pump will slide up on to make it easier to remove the pump:
Here's a picture of the pump holder, notice the ridges, this is what you have to dremel, sand, or grind out. You need to completly remove the ridges so it is smooth.
What I used to sand the casting down:
You need to modify the racetronix pump housing:
Here's why:
Install the fuel pump into the housing (and reinstall the C clip):
Press the filter onto the bottom of the pump
Remove the small suction jet hose from the old pump and install it on the new one, tighten the clamp on the hose, it should fit snugly but not come off easily:
Install the pump back into the module:
Back in its home
Rejoin the two fuel module halves and Connect the main fuel hose to the top:
Reinstall the suction jet fitting at the bottom of the module:
Slide the sensor back on to the module and slide the two sensor wires into the connector
Put the red lock in the middle of the connector and plug the connector back into the module.
Reinstall module into car.
Hopefully this helps some of you out there.
That's freaking awesome Tom!!
Proud member of Jbody of Kentucky ... Click on sig to go!
Win win win, but with the 99 metal tank it takes more trimming. I need to get some pictures...and finish.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Nice man, thanks for the how to.
Mike, yea show us a how to on the metal tanks!
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD
AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
First I have heard about trimming the pump it's self.
FU Tuning
-MD- Enforcer wrote:Win win win, but with the 99 metal tank it takes more trimming. I need to get some pictures...and finish.
Good write up, but true, a little more trimming is needed for the 96-99 tanks.
Is this fairly universal, or does it require different work depending on the engine?
2010 Honda Fit LX
engine doesn't matter same procedure might be different from year to year
JBO since July 30, 2001
do you just need the pump and not the wireing harness that you can order with it ?
the wiring harness is a good addition, makes the pump see more then 12volts due to also getting power off of the alternator as well thus making it see 14v
so it would be good to get the wireing harness to . is the harness hard to hook up ?
for a j body i wouldn't worry about the harness the pump is rated for what 700hp for an LS1 if you get the harness, you wont see that kind of power, 99% of j bodys don't even see half that power just buy the pump kit running 14V to it wont make it better on a J body the pump will supply any engine you put in a j body at 12V just fine
JBO since July 30, 2001
alright cool sounds like a good pump and fairly easy to instal but .but cant run it in a metal tank i hear ?
Great write up.I will be using it soon.
I got the fuel pump in the car. The thing that sucks about this pump is that it has no internal check valve. What this means is when the car is shut off the fuel will back flow through the pump, So when you go to start the car it won't start til the pump has built up enough pressure to start the engine. Kind of annoying, but all you have to do is wait a couple seconds with the key in the on position.
i do that anyways i alwasys let my car prime just wait till the pump shuts off ot usually when the stock radio turns on is long enough
great write up this should be stickied, why its not i have no idea
JBO since July 30, 2001
So, um my 99 has a rubber surround around the fuel pump.......just like the instructions. My buddies 99, was completely different. Also my fittings to the tank we like the 00-02, besides one fitting.....which was like the 98-96 tanks.
I had to do NO CUTTING AT ALL on my pump housing, and my level sender is EXACTLY like the one in the racetronix pictures. I'll post pictures hopefully tonight.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
I prime my car anyway before turning the ignition on as well, so that would be no big deal to me either.
Mike, great news. Can't wait to see pictures. Ill be going this route if my blazer pump ever decides to crap on me.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Quote:
First I have heard about trimming the pump it's self.
Same here. Can anyone explain this?
PSN ID: Phatchance249
Mike, how is your car running with this pump now?
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
David not running....
Please this trend....
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
gonna bring this thread back
my stock pump died, so i ordered the racetronix. I followed the how to and everything went well. hooked up the racetronix harness, hot wire was run to alternator, relay was grounded in rear wheel well. key has to be turned to prime, no big deal. AFR in cruising is exactly where it should be, AFR in boost, not so much. It leans out as boost increases. With the stock pump and the reflash i was seeing low 11 AFRs all the way through 12psi, so now I see mid 12s at 5 psi and any more boost over that I'm looking at 13+ AFR. My wideband sensor is good, so thats not an issue. I talked to a few people and they said to check some grounds, and all of that is good.
Coincidently, my pass side headlight blew out and took my driver side corner light with it. The headlight had to have blown after i installed the new pump, as they were fine the last time i drove the car. The DRL light would flash and service light would come on. New bulbs and now that issue is solved. is there anyway that could be related to my fueling issue? I know that GM wires cars ass backwards and everything is interconnected.
any help or insight would be greatly appreciated. I miss the whine of an eaton
still have no idea why people are buying the wiring kit our cars will never see the need for that kinda power to the pump LS1 yes our cars no not even with the engine i have in mine will i see the need for it
i'm guessing you messed something up because really GM doesn't wire the cars ass backwards and i can't see it blowin the headlights unless you messed something up cause there completely different circuits.
maybe take the wiring kit out and replace the wiring back to stock and see what your car does
JBO since July 30, 2001
