So I picked upmy project engine this week and Started Gutting it down tonight. Got held up when we broke my only 13mm wrench(I have like 5 but no idea where the other 4 are?!?!) and I need a Pully Puller to get the Crank pully off.
So, I posted another Thread in which I was asking what I should and Shouldn't do.
Goal for the build is Under $1500
Plans for GM S/C and POSSIBLY a smaller Pully IN THE FUTURE, NOT DURING THE BUILD)
New Clutch/PP
Lightweight Flywheel(Probably Fidanza)
Piston's
Rods
Valves
Muller Oil Pump
New Timing Kit and Water Pump
TeamGreen LSD
ELIMINATE EGR
TTR Upper Mount
Stainless Lines where applicable
Aftermarket Header, will NEVER re-install the OEM RUST!!!!
Lots of Cleanup, polishing, and Powder Coating
NoNos:
Bore, Stroke, ect
Cam Swap(to much confusion, not to mention future repairs will be a nightmare)
Questions:
#1: What advantages will I get From Upgraded Pistons? Rods? And is that a practical upgrade if Im only going to run the GM S/C?
#2: I have been told to stick with an OEM Crank Pully because this will be a DD, Is this true? Are there problems with the Unorthodox pullys?
Project engine is from a 96 Sunfire GT, 124k Miles, known Blown headgasket, Unsure on Head condition.
Pics of the project Engine:
After Picking it up from the junkers:
Was already missing the IDI and Ignition stuff, along with the AC compressor:
Started GUTTING:
Wow CRUD:
So tomorrow I'm going to Pickup a Pully Puller(and a new set of met. wrenches) and Finish Pulling the rest of the engine apart. If theres no Obvious damage to the head Im going to drop it off at the machine shop and get them to check it out fully for me, maybe the crank too.
Ordering the Flywheel, Clutch/PP, Oil Pump, Water Pump, Timing kit, and Gasket kit for now.
considering the s/c kit alone runs $1400, i think your $1500 spending limit is going to need to be inflated quite a bit.
zyaaa -
Chazz with the Asian(SpyWiz) wrote:
Plans for GM S/C and POSSIBLY a smaller Pully IN THE FUTURE, NOT DURING THE BUILD)
what compression pistons are you going with?
secret cam swap would be a good idea IMO
OEM Comp.
Cam Swap is just to Difficult, I dont want to do something I dont understand.
The secret cams swap right in with no modification, it would be the same as putting the stock 2.4 cams in.
What Exactly will i gain from the cam swap? Any dyno #'s from a N/A car and an S/C car?
Do the cam swap! I did this in my 95Z cause my 2.3 had one of them in there and the other opened up a new feel/sound out of the engine. I hate myself for not doing it in my 01Z when I had the other engine out, but I was just to pressed for time. It really lets the engine open up more in the upper rpms. We did this on a local's SCed car and it made even more of a difference since more air was flowing into the engine.
CCasper wrote:zyaaa -
Chazz with the Asian(SpyWiz) wrote:
Plans for GM S/C and POSSIBLY a smaller Pully IN THE FUTURE, NOT DURING THE BUILD)
what compression pistons are you going with?
secret cam swap would be a good idea IMO
damn, i thought it was just the pulley in the future
even still, 1500 for a performance oriented rebuild is going to be tight.
mmmmmm. I love turning bolts. got the socket?
Quote:
performance oriented rebuild
ANYONE ELSE LIKE THESE WORDS?
hEY CHAZZ, LETS GET A COUPLE OF THOSE CHICKS TO POSE BY THAT RUSTY FLYWHEEL AND EXHAUST MANIFOLD!
heh
Well Just made an essential list and a wish list.
Essentials $2200
Wish list (incl. SC) $4900
I'm going to shuffle my finances around a bit and See what I can do reasonably because I am Car-less at the moment.
Headed out to finish the tear-down now.
that 2200 is that parts only or does that include labour at the machine shop, if not you might be surprised (mind you if you work at a machine shop or have connections maybe not)
if you gonna build it might aswell do it right bore it a little over if you gonna get new rods and pistons what the cost of boreing it.
no sense in cheaping out over a couple hundred bucks you may regret it later.
new rods and pistons will have to be balance anyway so its not like you can drop them in yourself when they show up at your house
JBO since July 30, 2001
all i have to say is if you put stock rods and pistons back in YOUR WASTING YOUR MONEY
you sending it going through all this work to make a good motor and putting the WEAKEST part of it back in
if you need to save money save it in the valvetrain build the block right the first time bolt the head back on and when you get more cash then get the head done
fawk i got a good head sitting here i'd sell you if your gonna run stock interals you should have left it alone and put it in the car and bought the supercharger and went with it. the head looks good put the money in the block the head is a saturday job get a case of beer you and a buddy can swap out the head when you have cash just DON'T put the weak stock internals back in
JBO since July 30, 2001
NOTa2_4 wrote:all i have to say is if you put stock rods and pistons back in YOUR WASTING YOUR MONEY
you sending it going through all this work to make a good motor and putting the WEAKEST part of it back in
if you need to save money save it in the valvetrain build the block right the first time bolt the head back on and when you get more cash then get the head done
fawk i got a good head sitting here i'd sell you if your gonna run stock interals you should have left it alone and put it in the car and bought the supercharger and went with it. the head looks good put the money in the block the head is a saturday job get a case of beer you and a buddy can swap out the head when you have cash just DON'T put the weak stock internals back in
The GM S/C was designed to run on stock internals, so Its not a waste of money. $1000+ in rods, pistons, and machine work that's not necessary is a waste of money.
Why would I have left a blown head gasket and dropped it back in lol
Thanks anyway.
yeah but you have the motor tore apart and was originally goin to build it i say fawk the head build the block up stong and when you get more for the head do it then
like i said earlier heads a 1 day job. the weakest part of the 2.4 is the rods so you have this opertunity that other don't have to build this part up STRONG. you say the supercharger was designed for stock rods YES your right its also designed for a STOCK HEAD.
its up to you bud its your money but being this far into your project thought i would try and help you out. you could spend a bunch of cash on the head or replace all the gaskets supercharge it drive out of the driveway and have arod let go then the money you spent on the gasket kit and on the head will all be lost if the rod lets go and the piston smacks the head it may be FAWKED
i would put a 8.5:1 compression piston in it then get the supercharger with a smaller pully
JBO since July 30, 2001
Why would a fresh Built 2.4 immediately Blow on a Factory S/C???
Besides, Its nt that I dont WANT to Build the bottom end, I just DONT want to spend the $1200+ to do rods and pistons. Just because I do the bottom end dosent mean the Head is free.
Thats WAY too much to spend on the engine for me.
i'm just curious cause what you started off in this thread to what your doin now is way different its not even a 2.4 BUILD THREAD anymore its a 2.4 restore
atleast your restoring a dieing breed
JBO since July 30, 2001
opps sent it before finished wish we could edit posts
i wanted to see what kinda number you were gonna run with it built up, have you found a supercharger yet
JBO since July 30, 2001
Planning to Go ahead and pick up a new kit from GMPD, Hopefully (eventually) Id like 300ish,Just enoug to keep up with the GFs SR20DET and my roomates Greddy S/C Celica.
More of a restoration, yes I guess. I found a great deal on some forged rods, is it works out Ill get them.
SoUp to date build list(if everything works out)
Bottom End:
Stock Crank
Mantapart Forged OEM Lenth Rods
OEM Pistons
New Bearings & Rings
New Melling Oil pump
New Balancer(because of stupid bolt ARG)
Top End:
New Gaskets+ Cometic HG
Full Head service
Port+Polish
"Secret" Cam swap(despite my OP)
External:
4-1 DC Sports Header
"Test Pipe"
8lb Alumnum Flywheel
New Organic OEM Clutch kit
Eventually:
GM S/C
Smaller Pully
Cartech
Adjustable FPR.
New Organic OEM Clutch kit whats that cost you, check wiht aaron at turbo tech (hes a member here) he might be able to get you a higher stage rating for a better price yes the GM charger can run on a stock but if you can get a stage 2 or even 3 for the same price why not have that completed
i got my stage 3 from him and its not hard to drive it feels really good should have gotten the 3+ but we'l see how it goes.
there so many people that hate spec and others love them but i know people who hate bully as well. my spec also came with the through out bearing does the GM come with it or is it extra
JBO since July 30, 2001
To me it seems you are in over your head.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
Chazz with the Asian(SpyWiz) wrote:I just DONT want to spend the $1200+ to do rods and pistons.
WTF? My rods and pistons cost ~ $550.
Don't half ass your @!#$ project. It's a waste to rebuild your engine with stock stuff that won't handle more power. Believe me, you're going to regret it...
2001 Olds Alero (LD9)
650 whp / 543 ft-lb
@turboalero
Take the money you got and buy a beater, take your time, and do this right the first go around if you're wanting to do a legit engine build.
If not, personally I'd just hand it to a reman. engine place and have them do the work. My buddy had a place come pick up his 2.4l, complete rebuild, warranty, etc., delivered back to him for around $1500. The 2.4l I tossed in my Sunfire is a reman. from Engine Pro. No troubles with either.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, August 05, 2008 11:58 AM
don't mean to come off as a dick cause i have made a bunhc of post but this is what i got off the turbo tech site if you ask aaron abou thtese he might be able to get you a deal not sure how much but see what he says
Wisco pistons 479 comes with rings and wrist pins
Eagle Rods 339
mellings oil pump 119
fidanza flywheel 339
Spec Stage 3 clutch 360 (believe the 2 might be the same price or liek 9 bucks cheaper) comes with throughtout bearing
all you would have to do is balance it and put the bearings in
save cash on the build don't buy the
flywheel
oil pump (if the one you have works run it) i did when i rebuilt a 2.2L
rods/pistons is 818 eagle rods are better then the mantapart ones
get your secret cams from a wrecker look for a used supercharger in the classifieds your set, i know you want new but 3000 for a new one isn't worth it when you can swap a 3800 for that
JBO since July 30, 2001
