Hello all, Just thought I would share with you something that few so far know about (Jess being one of them just cause shes special :-)

I decided a little while ago that I wanted to look into turbo charging my cavalier. Its a 2200 auto (yes yes I know theres the other shoe...) But I'm looking at a possible manual swap or some work into the 4t40 to make it a little more potent. Shortly after I acquired the rebuilt Garret T3 super 60 I heard about an opportunity to use the engine lab at my local junior college (of which i attend for my associates in automotive service) for an independent study that I was selected for. Instead of rebuilding a crate motor which is what we did in engines class I had the opportunity to rebuild a motor of my choice and do whatever I want with it. SO off to the junkyard I went...and returned happily with the wondrously disappointing and unassuming 2200...





and so it began



rockers are for real motors :-)





organization is key...



crack check





starting the gasket match and P&P of the intake side



port matched intake



first look at the head P&P



almost done gasket matching



just about finished



intake detail









thermo housing...random...



bottom end coming apart.



parts



valve train parts



guide work





SS stainless 1mm over valves



me



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final port detail





stock comp stock bore wisecos



eagle h beams



checking valve seat widths

stuff

breaking the glaze...THIS IS NOT HONING!!!!

more stuff

annnd measuring the wisecos/fitting them to the cyls

even more

cam bearings waiting for something to hold :-)



block painted



bottom end in







proof i timed it right... :-)



Old motor out...



new motor in







video of first start,,,minus the starting...

First not start...

video of a start...

it lives

now obviously someone is going where is the turbo...its coming. I got it broken in and am beating the crap out of it as well as pulling it partially back out to fix an oil leak at the back of the block. However this summer it goes down.. Should be fun...

More updates later, I do also (believe it or not) have more pictures



Buildin' n' Boostin for 08' - Alex Richards

Wow. Nice thread! Looks like its gonna be a beast. And it definitely looks like you know what your doing.



2004 Cavalier
13.2@105........
Mods...
BFG Drag Radials
Saab Turbo kit
2.5 exhaust, w/cutout
Spec Stage 2+ Clutch

yea nice job man, sounds and looks good.











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Thanks!

Good to hear it from an eco guy...haha

Full parts list (that I can think of)

2001 Ln2 2200.
starting from bottom
Clevite/Melling M98 Oil pump
Eagle H Beam Rods
Balanced stock crank
Clevite 77 main and rod bearings
Wiseco 8.85:1 3.502" pistons (stock bore) 333.3 grams a piece
Block painted gunmetal grey mettallic with clear. Oil pan in satin finish coat. Black hardware.
Stock cam (they love boost)
Clevite lifters
3/8" pushrods
clevite cam bearings Full round
cloyes timing chain tensioner
GM timing set (repackaged under sealed power?!)
1.6 ratio no name full roller rockers
ARP rocker studs
Stock valve springs (debate!) But they are new...
1mm oversize full swirl polished valves from karo


procedures
full P&P. Very aggressive. even struggles when cold in the morning...but once she warms its all throttle response. Pulls much harder above 4k
3 angle valve job...5 angles suck (debate!)
guides knurled and reamed
cyl's straight and concentric on main girdles...just a quick deglaze here...video up thur^^
I belive my ring gaps (turbo app) are 0.014" top and 0.012" bottom.
not too much else....you dont need to torque those big bolts that go through the head right?









Buildin' n' Boostin for 08' - Alex Richards

haha sorry white cavy...you beat my post~!

Good to hear it from an eco AND an LD9 guy! haha!

Whitecavy: always loved your car btw ITs sexy as hell and I want it :-)



Buildin' n' Boostin for 08' - Alex Richards

^^Haha all good man.. You don't want my car and its problems My motor is getting built for the second time, damn HG's hehe.. I should have progress pics of my assembly here soon, so watch out











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

fun stuff :-)

good luck with the build! I've done the oil pan gasket on mine three times before finally coming to the conclusion that my oil seep is higher up...so I know how it is :-)



Buildin' n' Boostin for 08' - Alex Richards

NICE!!! how much did the pistons cost you?

So why wouldn't it start?

those 2200's are mean little engines with a pnp and turbo. should be rather fuel effecient too.

were you in automotive school in those vid clips?

what kind of idiot says that a 5angle valve job is worse than a 3? The head looks ok at best, those ports wont have much velocity to them in the low numbers. All that work, with stock valvesprings and a stock camshaft? Other than that the build looks good. Just wondering where you get your information from


_______________________
** Flat Broke Racing Inc.**

Justin_Inc wrote:what kind of idiot says that a 5angle valve job is worse than a 3? The head looks ok at best, those ports wont have much velocity to them in the low numbers. All that work, with stock valvesprings and a stock camshaft? Other than that the build looks good. Just wondering where you get your information from

When i needed valve seats reground I was advised by 3 different shops that a 5 angle is a bad idea for a primarily street driven car. Something about the valve seat taking to much abuse and having to be reground after a years worth of driving.

mitdr774 wrote:

Justin_Inc wrote:what kind of idiot says that a 5angle valve job is worse than a 3? The head looks ok at best, those ports wont have much velocity to them in the low numbers. All that work, with stock valvesprings and a stock camshaft? Other than that the build looks good. Just wondering where you get your information from

When i needed valve seats reground I was advised by 3 different shops that a 5 angle is a bad idea for a primarily street driven car. Something about the valve seat taking to much abuse and having to be reground after a years worth of driving.

thats exactly what I've heard...





LE61T PTE6262 Powered

Quote:


So why wouldn't it start?

X2. Firing order off?



FU Tuning

awesome work...jealousy sets in....i say go for the manual Getrag swap....you won't regret it (Manual + turbo = FUN!, slushbox auto + turbo = boring IMO)

I have adlers old head and it has a 5 angle and its doing fine. bought it from him like a year or so ago


DRIVE HARD OR DONT DRIVE AT ALL!!!

Alex Richards wrote:cyl's straight and concentric on main girdles...just a quick deglaze here...video up thur^^
I belive my ring gaps (turbo app) are 0.014" top and 0.012" bottom.

Gaps seem kind of small for a turbo app 2200...

Phil aka QBE wrote:

mitdr774 wrote:

Justin_Inc wrote:what kind of idiot says that a 5angle valve job is worse than a 3? The head looks ok at best, those ports wont have much velocity to them in the low numbers. All that work, with stock valvesprings and a stock camshaft? Other than that the build looks good. Just wondering where you get your information from

When i needed valve seats reground I was advised by 3 different shops that a 5 angle is a bad idea for a primarily street driven car. Something about the valve seat taking to much abuse and having to be reground after a years worth of driving.

thats exactly what I've heard...

Seats have much higher stress concentrations with a 5-angle due to the decreased contact area. I'd never recommend a 5-angle on a street car either.

I have to agree with the nay-sayer about the port job, I think you're going to be inducing a TON of turbulence at the injector (should be a little further down to be efficient). Did you determine the spray pattern was cut off with the stock ports? Also, were you able to enlarge the manifold runners at all?



fortune cookie say: better a delay than a disaster

My only concern is how the head is breathing... Overall I dig it... Can't wait to see it boosted..



P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq

you should turn this into a LN2 build guide for all of us so that we may learn your ways!

Very nice job man, good to see this up here.


___________________________________________________________________

Mitsu TD06-20g |3" Downpipe w/ Cutout | 61mm Bored TB |
HP Tuners | Innovate WB02 | Spec Stage 3 | TurboTech Upper | Full Addco Sways | Sportlines & Yellows |

nice.

BUT, your runners are a little fuzzy.



JBO Stickers! Get yours today!

you really hogged the shizz outta those ports. did you flow bench this thing?

3 angles are for lazy people.

Alex, overall nice build.

As for what Notec said, he's correct, the decreased contact area (valve margin) will absorb all the impact, causing deformation of the seat. Depending upon the cutter used, the margin can be adjusted, but when you adjust the margin larger, the cutter may not reach the inside angle and the advantage of the multiple angles diminishes. My head got a continuous radius cut. The Machinist who did it decreased the the margin to less than he uses on normal street driven motors, but still more than a race motor. That was four years ago, and the wear is showing, but I've got the other head to go on as soon as I get the head to the shop and get the valves. The guy who did the work is no longer at the shop and the owner is doing all the work him self and has had alot of problems lately, I might have to go to a different shop. It's a bigger and better equiped shop, but more expesive. They've got a good reputation though.

I'm going to have to agree about the intake ports, you probably over did it on the manifold side. Your saving grace there will be that your going boosted. I'll still have questions about the flow around the injectors, you might end up with the A/F charge separating, before it reaches the chamber.

wow another 2.2L fan Smcavalier has a rebuilt Turbo 2.2 aswell hsi si a 94 not the 2200 just not many people put time into them. they have some potential and are almost like rebuilding a 350

keep it up


JBO since July 30, 2001

i like it, have you tuned it yet or have you had any dyno time? if so post up the numbers!

So, I'll try and hit it all.. haha

The reason it did not start was my fault. When I took the coil packs apart to clean them (the "new" ones from the donor motor) I mistakenly put the 1/4 where the 2/3 is supposed to go so when I hooked up the plug wires and went by the numbers on the top of the coil packs they were actually incorrect. IT was trying to fire, but as you can see 1 and 4 were trying to fire when 2 and 3 were supposed to and vice versa. Easy fix had her running and smoking the shop in about 5 minutes.

I was in the school's shop. I got it running the last day of classes. SO I started during christmas break getting the motor and had it in the car running great by the end of the semester. So the build was probably about from Dec 22 till about apr 1st or so. Dont remember the exact day.

About the 3 angle... Yes this is a street driven car and I'd like to keep it that way. The build is conservative overall and the pistons and rods were really just overkill for durability concerns. MY ultimate goal is obviously performance but I want it to drive like a mildly modified factory turbo car. This is reflected in my turbo choice as well.

and the port job, I do realize I went quite far with the gasket match.. (The actual port runner is not enlarged by much more then 1/8") The pictures are deceiving since they are not the clearest in the world. But yes the gasket matching led to quite a large area being hogged out at the entry. Again I was looking at this from a "Its going to be FI so I dont need to worry as much about port velocity and turbulence".

The injector issue we will see about. The injectors I left shrouded in the stock form on the intake manifold. The rest of the intake manifold port area is matched to the head. So it should create a nice vacuum right around the tip of the injectors. Hopefully its not terribly turbulent. Unfortunately unless I go with something like a vortech setup I probably wont be able to get the fuel injected much further down the port than it already is. As it is the injector is spraying directly on the back of the intake valves. Stock the fuel was basically being sprayed on the top of the port until it hit the valve guide.


No numbers yet...butt dyno says I'm putting down more above 4k than stock...not much more but it is there.

Numbers later on... Once the turbo goes on, and if i can get a good look at the back of the block to see whats leaking before tues I will have a baseline E.T.



Buildin' n' Boostin for 08' - Alex Richards