I'm currently in the process of swapping an L61 for the LD9 that's currently installed in my car. It's becoming easier to find the
L61 out of a Cobalt/Ion than it is a J-body, and that's what I purchased when I bought my motor. I thought I would post up the
differences that I have run into during this swap.

I'm ONLY going to put in information about the differences between the J-body Eco and non-Jbody Eco. There are lots of other threads
about the actual swap, so please do a search for those to figure out what other parts you might need.

the actual motor:
-Due to a difference in the reluctor wheel in some of the Eco motors, if you have to get one out of a Cobalt/Ion, stick to '03-'06.
L61's started using a 58x reluctor wheel setup sometime in '06, which is incompatible with our ECU's. Also, all other Eco motors
(LSJ, LE5) use the 58x, so don't think you're going to drop a 2.4 or supercharged 2.0 Eco into your J-body, unless you plan on
running a full standalone engine management setup.

mounting:
-The Cobalt/Ion uses a completely different mounting setup. You'll need a new top mount, and the bracket that bolts to the motor that
the top mount bolts to.

-You'll also need the lower mount bracket from an Eco-powered J-body that bolts to the oil pan.

oiling:
-The Ion/Cobalt uses a different mounting setup, so the oil pan is different. You'll need a J-body Eco oil pan.

-You'll also need a J-body Eco dipstick tube.

intake/exhaust:

-Check the throttle body that's installed on the engine you buy, and verify it's activated by cable. If not, you'll need on of those.

-I've yet to see anyone retain the stock exhaust manifold during their swap. You'll have to check on your own to make sure this would be
compatible with the stock J-body exhaust if you still have it.

transmission:
-The transmission in the Cobalt/Ion uses different mounting points. Count on buying an '02 Cavalier LS Sport, or '03+ J-body transmission.

-Also, you might need the J-body trans mounts as well, depending on the setup you have, and the one you are going to install.

fuel system:
-I know that the Ion L61 that I bought was setup for a returnless fuel system, meaning there isn't a second fuel line coming out of the
fuel rail going back to the tank. Of course, this all has to be changed. You'll need the fuel rail and the fuel lines (from the rail to back to
where the connections are by the firewall) from an Eco J-body.

-The injectors and injector harness from the Cobalt/Ion motor should work.

power steering:
-I know that the Ion's use an electric steering setup, so the power steering pump is not installed on the motor. You'll need a power steering
pump. The '00+ pumps should work.

-Also, the hex drive machined into the intake cam on the J-body Eco is not on the Ion Eco either, so you'll need at least the intake cam.

-Here's the tools that are needed and/or helpful for the cam swap:
Ecotec Cam Swap tool (Kent-Moore J-43655)
Ft/lb torque wrench
In/lb torque wrench
Torque angle meter

Also, the cam sprocket bolts are torque-to-yield meaning they are not reuseable. You'll have to hit up the dealership for these. They ran me
about $15 a piece.




Desert Tuners

“When you come across a big kettle of crazy, it’s best not to stir it.”

pics to come this weekend

providing the weather is good

Question. With the difference in the reluctor wheels couldn't you run a Cobalt/Ion ECU?



FU Tuning

the Cobalt/Ion ECU (PCM) harness is way different. I would suspect there would also be an issue with connecting it to the cabin wiring harness. I guess you could do a lot of splicing/re-wiring to try and get it to work.


Desert Tuners

“When you come across a big kettle of crazy, it’s best not to stir it.”

Quote:

Also, the cam sprocket bolts are torque-to-yield meaning they are not reuseable. You'll have to hit up the dealership for these. They ran me
about $15 a piece.

I re-used mine...twice.

FReQ Z wrote:the Cobalt/Ion ECU (PCM) harness is way different. I would suspect there would also be an issue with connecting it to the cabin wiring harness. I guess you could do a lot of splicing/re-wiring to try and get it to work.

Is the block where the engine bay harness and cabin harness connect different? I'm just asking, I have never looked at a Cobalt/Ion harness.



FU Tuning

I've still got the harness at home. I'll take a picture of it. but yes, it's really different.


Desert Tuners

“When you come across a big kettle of crazy, it’s best not to stir it.”

dont use a ion clutch with a J trans , locks um up tighter than a drum

what do you mean?

im using a ion flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. on a j-body trans. Works just fine. I havent had one problem with it.
granted i have a ion trans w/ j-body case halfs.

really?

mine is locked up solid. I was told by the guy at Spec that the Ion clutch has more depth because it's a self-adjusting clutch.


Desert Tuners

“When you come across a big kettle of crazy, it’s best not to stir it.”

yea......mine is the factory saturn setup w/ a j-body throw out bearing.

thats it

Eric would have to post up, because he knows more about that stuff.

basically, I took of the Ion trans, left the clutch/flywheel there, and bolted up the j-body trans.


Desert Tuners

“When you come across a big kettle of crazy, it’s best not to stir it.”

the motor is locked solid right now , the motor spun when we did the cams , and the diff spins and no trans noise

plugs were out , and i cant spin the motor in either direction

also the clutch to me looked different than i remember from when i helped out brandon do his motor the first time







Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Monday, August 06, 2007 7:49 PM

from what you're saying Justin, is you're using the backhalf of the J-body trans, but the front half of the Ion trans?


Desert Tuners

“When you come across a big kettle of crazy, it’s best not to stir it.”

yea basically, maybe thats why it works

cause i got the engine trans combo..........and only traded out the case half on the bottom of your pic w/ dans old one.
but it drives just fine

and that would explain why the trans mounts works... because they're at the "bottom half" of the trans cases.

so basically... Ion bell housing with a J-body back-half.


Desert Tuners

“When you come across a big kettle of crazy, it’s best not to stir it.”

thats all i did.

when dan blew his transmisssion i aquired it and swapped all the pieces. You need special tools to do it also.

if you are gonna do any f/i then i would get new clutch setup.

mine is starting to take its toll and it only had 3000k miles on the stock setup. and less than 500 boosted, turbo and supercharger.

lol

maybe cause its the wrong size in there.

also DO NOT RESURFACE AN ECO FLYWHEEL, YOU will have major problems. just replace it.

special tools? like what? what's involved with swapping the halves?


Desert Tuners

“When you come across a big kettle of crazy, it’s best not to stir it.”

I am pretty sure that all 00 and newer jbody 5 spd are the Gertag F23. This is what was in my 2002 z24. To get the case split like it is in the picture does not require any special tools. I know because I just did this to put in the team green LSD insert.
The only thing I can think of that could be a problem is removing this plug. It must be removed and the 8mm hex bolt beneath it for the case to split as pictured above. The plug is the gray circle just to the bottom right of the input shaft in this picture.
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r296/JMHZ2401/100_0234.jpg

Here is the part # for that plug 9120610. This is a dealer only part.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, August 07, 2007 8:48 AM


FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!

no special tools ehh.......we'll just see what happens to your trans.

what are all these:

Quote:

• J 7079-2 Universal Driver Handle - Non-Threaded

• J 8092 Universal Driver Handle - 3/4 in - 10

• J 23907 Slide Hammer with Bearing Adapter

• J 44375 Assembly Pallet

• J 44376 Bearing Pusher/Puller

• J 44377 Input Shaft Anti-Rotation Tool

• J 44380 Differential Bearing Race Puller

• J 44381 Shifter Bearing/Input and Output Bearing Remover

• J 44382 Countershaft Needle Bearing Puller

• J 44385 Differential Bearing Race and Seal Installer

im pretty sure they arent that important.

to switch the case halfs like jared asked you have to switch out allt he gears and gear assembly. Im pretty sure he wants to do it right and not the halfassed way.

If i worked @ van i would let ya borrow the tools. It took about 5 hours to trade everything out when i did it. using j tools.
i assume it could be done using hand tools but have yet to do it.

so, just to split the case doesn't take any special tools... but to transfer everything over would take a lot.

guess a new clutch is the way to go.

hey Justin... I have an Ion trans and clutch for sale... I'll give you a good deal on 'em.


Desert Tuners

“When you come across a big kettle of crazy, it’s best not to stir it.”

If all you are doing is swapping halves you do not need special tools. To swap all the internals you might need them I would not know as I did not go that far. I was only referring to swapping the bell housing.



FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!

so Justin, I can't just swap the case? the internals have to go too?


Desert Tuners

“When you come across a big kettle of crazy, it’s best not to stir it.”

Nice to see you started your swap. i have 35,000 left before the wife said i could.

you can try swapping the case halfs.i dont guess it would hurt....