Now, maybe I'm retarded, but is it possible to remove the head from the block (on a 2200) by just removing the valve cover, and taking off the bolts, repeat for outside, and voila?
As some of you know, I snapped a plug in cylinder 2, nothing left. Reason being: mis-read Hayne's manual, read 132 FT/lbs of torque instead of inch/pounds... yea... And the engine was a bit warm to boot... So head needs to come off so I can have a heli-coil installed by a local machinist...
But yes, taking off the head, do the internals have to come out too? Hayne's says use the adapter with the spark plug port to compressed air, I have the compressor, I know where to source out the adapter locally... but as you can guess, it would be an issue when I reach cylinder two and the adapter doesn't plug in correctly.
Thanks guys!
(By the way, is it possible for mods to change the username? How the heck I ended up with my real name is... I may have had a few too many.
)
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2002 Sunfire -->
- Ractive steering wheel
- ASA 17" EM9 + Nexen N5000 215/45/17 (steelies for winter)
- D-Spec Lowering kit @ 1.4" (issues currently
)
- Rockford P250.1 + MTX MZS1004 + Panasonic CQ-C8313U head unit
- Barely legal tint.
Before You Misread Anything Else, Have It Towed To A Shop And Let Someone Take Care Of It That Knows What They Are Doing.
Heard that one.
I've learned not to begin car projects after eleven hour work days.
In any case, the engines are a dime-a-dozen, and I've got a friend who's done three swaps on the j-body... If you ask why, high-mileage on replacement engines, too much time, and not enough money!
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2002 Sunfire -->
- Ractive steering wheel
- ASA 17" EM9 + Nexen N5000 215/45/17 (steelies for winter)
- D-Spec Lowering kit @ 1.4" (issues currently
)
- Rockford P250.1 + MTX MZS1004 + Panasonic CQ-C8313U head unit
- Barely legal tint.
Alternator is off, intake is off, coil, etc. I've got the rad piping left (need to drain it first), the fuel rail (where I finished last, needed the disconnect tool for the lines) and the engine mount (fully remembering to find a 2x4 to unite with the jack).
Problem:
The solution (part of it anyways :p).
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2002 Sunfire -->
- Ractive steering wheel
- ASA 17" EM9 + Nexen N5000 215/45/17 (steelies for winter)
- D-Spec Lowering kit @ 1.4" (issues currently
)
- Rockford P250.1 + MTX MZS1004 + Panasonic CQ-C8313U head unit
- Barely legal tint.
dont take it to a shop! they will overcharge and you will learn nothing!
Daniel Noriega wrote:dont take it to a shop! they will overcharge and you will learn nothing!
Exactly, and thus why I mentioned the engines are a dime-a-dozen. Worse comes to worse, I'll have it towed to my friend's garage, and we'll swap it out for another one. Just trying to keep this engine as it has just over 32K miles.
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2002 Sunfire -->
- Ractive steering wheel
- ASA 17" EM9 + Nexen N5000 215/45/17 (steelies for winter)
- D-Spec Lowering kit @ 1.4" (issues currently
)
- Rockford P250.1 + MTX MZS1004 + Panasonic CQ-C8313U head unit
- Barely legal tint.
This isn't going to be pretty...and I'm definately curious to see what you manage to do with the compressed air as well
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
disconnect and remove battery
pull off the serpentine belt
disconnect the intake, and throttle body vacuum lines and linkages and harnesses
pull the alternator and power steering pump (leave the lines connected on the PS pump! watch out for the bolts inside the pulley area.. the holes in the pulley let you get to it)
pull the exhaust manifold off, dont forget to disconnect the O2 sensor
drain the rad and disconnect the two big hoses
don't disconnect the fuel lines at the bottom of the car, pull out the fuel rail from the manifold and leave it in the engine bay, its easier than worrying about the fuel lines
disconnect the coils from the head but leave the baseplate in place (EGR gasket under there do NOT remove unless you have that gasket)
pull the valve cover, be careful not to damage the o-ring
remove the rocker arms and number them so you remember where they go
remove the pushrods (they come right out.. keep them with their assigned rocker)
remove the 5 bolts on the inside of the head, and the 5 bolts on the outside of the head DO THEM IN ORDER in the chiltons
stand on the engine bay, and lift the head up and off CAREFULLY by grabbing the cooling pipe (still connected to the front of the engine) and the intake manifold
I'm pretty sure thats all the steps I did to get my head off when I blew the headgasket.. in that order
Ahh crap, knew I forgot something (PS pump).
And yes, obviously the manifold's gotta come off.
Safe to tackle it with the impact?
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2002 Sunfire -->
- Ractive steering wheel
- ASA 17" EM9 + Nexen N5000 215/45/17 (steelies for winter)
- D-Spec Lowering kit @ 1.4" (issues currently
)
- Rockford P250.1 + MTX MZS1004 + Panasonic CQ-C8313U head unit
- Barely legal tint.
DaFlyinSkwirl (PJ) - BPU++ wrote:
don't disconnect the fuel lines at the bottom of the car, pull out the fuel rail from the manifold and leave it in the engine bay, its easier than worrying about the fuel lines
disconnect the coils from the head but leave the baseplate in place (EGR gasket under there do NOT remove unless you have that gasket)
pull the valve cover, be careful not to damage the o-ring
-Was planning on the fuel rail as well... seemed alot less hassle. How do you disconnect it? Hayne's wasn't too clear.
- Shyte. When you say coils, I'm supposed to read the ignition coil, correct? I took off the bracket, the screws/bolts in it were wickedly hard to reach, was much easier to tackle the bracket with the air ratchet. I'm fairly sure my Fel-Pro set comes with the proper one (it's the complete head-set, only missing exhaust pipe packing - ummm - and the head bolts - picking new ones up on Monday when I return from Ottawa).
-Fel-Pro lists a Valve cover, I'll assume it's the o-ring. I'll match up part-for-part, if I'm missing parts, eh, I can wait a few days til a local supplier gets it in.
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2002 Sunfire -->
- Ractive steering wheel
- ASA 17" EM9 + Nexen N5000 215/45/17 (steelies for winter)
- D-Spec Lowering kit @ 1.4" (issues currently
)
- Rockford P250.1 + MTX MZS1004 + Panasonic CQ-C8313U head unit
- Barely legal tint.
OHV guys got it easy on head swaps. Im in the middle of doing my 2.3 head swap and its a night mare.
http://www.gadomestics.com/
I know we do, no timing chains and such non-sense.
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2002 Sunfire -->
- Ractive steering wheel
- ASA 17" EM9 + Nexen N5000 215/45/17 (steelies for winter)
- D-Spec Lowering kit @ 1.4" (issues currently
)
- Rockford P250.1 + MTX MZS1004 + Panasonic CQ-C8313U head unit
- Barely legal tint.
I didn't take the manifolds off :shrug, just the 2 bottom bolts on the exhaust, IIRC, I took the intake manifold off though.. not sure if you have to.
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
I have an impact and a new gasket, heck, may as well swap it out.
The only thing I need to pick up now is a torque wrench in INCH pounds.
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2002 Sunfire -->
- Ractive steering wheel
- ASA 17" EM9 + Nexen N5000 215/45/17 (steelies for winter)
- D-Spec Lowering kit @ 1.4" (issues currently
)
- Rockford P250.1 + MTX MZS1004 + Panasonic CQ-C8313U head unit
- Barely legal tint.
The culprit:
Apparently I stumbled on a V.2 of this wrench, as apparently, Canadian tire has them now listed as inch-pound (30-250). Mine is listed on the wrench as foot-pound, from 20-250... Are they just playing numbers? Any explanation?
--------------------------------------------------------
2002 Sunfire -->
- Ractive steering wheel
- ASA 17" EM9 + Nexen N5000 215/45/17 (steelies for winter)
- D-Spec Lowering kit @ 1.4" (issues currently
)
- Rockford P250.1 + MTX MZS1004 + Panasonic CQ-C8313U head unit
- Barely legal tint.
--------------------------------------------------------
2002 Sunfire -->
- Ractive steering wheel
- ASA 17" EM9 + Nexen N5000 215/45/17 (steelies for winter)
- D-Spec Lowering kit @ 1.4" (issues currently
)
- Rockford P250.1 + MTX MZS1004 + Panasonic CQ-C8313U head unit
- Barely legal tint.
Correct me if I'm Wrong here, but when i took my head off i had to take off the upper motor mount, because i couldnt get to one of the bolts that attaches the head to the mount itself, its behind an idler pulley... so i think do all of what Skwirl said, plus you need to remove the upper motor mount, make sure to place a jack or jackstand under the motor to hold it up while its removed, and something to spread the weight, I used a 4x4 block.
Am i giving an extra step here Skwirl? because i wasnt able to get a wrench or anything down where the pulley bolts to the mount on the head. If Im wrong please correct me beacuse Im going to be taking it off again when i get my patriot head.
no you're right.. i'm goin on memory i did the head change on my OHV about 2 years ago
upper motor mount definetly has to come out
also, removing the fuel rail is easy.. disconnect the wiring harness to each injector (a small clip.. pull on the green tab to release it, then they should come right off) and a few bolts and then tug on the rail to get it to pop out of the manifold. Tug with some force, but don't go insane. leave the fuel rail, along with the injectors and what not connected in the engine bay, just put it up and out of your way.
if you're worried about fuel pressure, it'll slowly dwindle after not running, or if the car is startable, start the car and let it run, then pull the fuel pump relay
that will kill the car safely and relieve most of the fuel pressure in the lines (there will still be some however)
Matt Linke wrote:Correct me if I'm Wrong here, but when i took my head off i had to take off the upper motor mount, because i couldnt get to one of the bolts that attaches the head to the mount itself, its behind an idler pulley... so i think do all of what Skwirl said, plus you need to remove the upper motor mount, make sure to place a jack or jackstand under the motor to hold it up while its removed, and something to spread the weight, I used a 4x4 block.
Am i giving an extra step here Skwirl? because i wasnt able to get a wrench or anything down where the pulley bolts to the mount on the head. If Im wrong please correct me beacuse Im going to be taking it off again when i get my patriot head.
Yup. Hayne's has that listed as a step (disconnecting the upper motor mount). I've got the jack and the 2x4 ready, not owrried about that step (yet).
Also, I have some weird-ass screwy-thing as a rad plug... it's made out of plastic, and in there tight as hell... Almost looks like it would fit a hex, but that plastic is way too soft.
--------------------------------------------------------
2002 Sunfire -->
- Ractive steering wheel
- ASA 17" EM9 + Nexen N5000 215/45/17 (steelies for winter)
- D-Spec Lowering kit @ 1.4" (issues currently
)
- Rockford P250.1 + MTX MZS1004 + Panasonic CQ-C8313U head unit
- Barely legal tint.
