SpeedRacerZ wrote:[
yea pull that one out....... its your crank position sensor......
I've got mine in the cam tower......... and my stock one in the HO exhaust tower......
The stock sensor is just for the OIL light on the dash...... it grounds out when you loose oil pressure, and it triggers the light....... thats it. (unless OBD-1 like said above) if you unplug it, nothing happens
You mean remove it? I dont need it?
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Quote:
Does anyone know what thread size this hole is? Some people may not have the proper adapter so this would be useful to know.
The hole size for the oil plug by the timing chain housing is 1/4" NPT. You will need a 1/4" pipe to -4an adapter and a -4an to 1/8" pipe to thread on the oil pressure gauge.
That just seems like a long run for an oil pressure reading, but it will work.
Jason
99 Z24
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Well in trying to hook it up, I think I've found the big disadvantages of using the lower oil ports.
There's just no convenient way to run a line over there without worrying too much about it being too close to the exhaust components when coming back across.
That, and the 6' length of line that came with my pressure gauge doesn't even come close to making it that far.
I think that in order to use the lower ports, you pretty much have to invest in a braided line or something other than the nylon that comes with the gauges.
So according to Jason's post, these are the fittings I need to T off the stock sensor.
1 1/8" male to 1/4" male
1 1/4" male to 1/8" male
1 45 degree angle w/ 1/8" fittings
1 1/8" T-fitting w/ 1 male and 2 female ends
Doesn't it make more sense to use a 1/4" T-fitting rather than the two adapters?
Am I understanding his instructions correctly?
The hole in the cam tower is 1/4", right?
I was under the impression from a previous post you made that your were going to use braided line
The idea of using the 1/8" T is being able to use the 1/8" fitting, feroule, and nylon line that came with the mechanical gauge. I am pretty sure that the Autometer gauge does not come with a 1/4" feroule fitting. I could be wrong because I bought my gauge 5 years ago
Jason
99 Z24
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After seeing the nylon line, I figured it was solid enough to use for now. I may still switch to a braided line later.
My gauge actually came with a 1/4" adapter. So the hole that the stock gauge plugs into is 1/4", right? So if I can find a 1/4" T with one male and two female connectors, then that's all I need, right? Does anyone even make such a thing?
Wild Weasel wrote:Well in trying to hook it up, I think I've found the big disadvantages of using the lower oil ports.
There's just no convenient way to run a line over there without worrying too much about it being too close to the exhaust components when coming back across.
That, and the 6' length of line that came with my pressure gauge doesn't even come close to making it that far.
I think that in order to use the lower ports, you pretty much have to invest in a braided line or something other than the nylon that comes with the gauges.
So according to Jason's post, these are the fittings I need to T off the stock sensor.
1 1/8" male to 1/4" male
1 1/4" male to 1/8" male
1 45 degree angle w/ 1/8" fittings
1 1/8" T-fitting w/ 1 male and 2 female ends
Doesn't it make more sense to use a 1/4" T-fitting rather than the two adapters?
Am I understanding his instructions correctly?
The hole in the cam tower is 1/4", right?
This is all good info gor the FAQ. Also you can buy extra nylon hose form most parts stores. Pep Boys, Advanced auto, and connect them together. You can also get copper line, but I have found that hard to work with, and keep from leaking.
you can see i used copper line , also the copper line runs to right next to the master cyl , and ive got a union there , and it runs with the plastic line going inside
Yeah, I saw that and if I had any idea how to bend and fit copper lines, it would be a good way to go.
What sort of line is it? Is it meant for oil or hydraulics? It looks like it would store a lot more volume than you'd want in a pressure reading line. Is it a hard line similar to what's used in brakes?
Now I'm discovering more than I ever wanted to know about fitting sizes.
I'm learning the difference between NPT and AN sizing and learned that even though one may fit in the other, they are not actually compatable due to the shape of the seats in them.
So what's the hole in the block where the stock sender is plugged in? Is it a 1/4" NPT? Or -4 AN? Or something else?
the copper line is very flexable , its more flexable than the plastic line
like the plastic becarefull of getting kinks in the line , plastic or copper
the copper line is the same size as the plastic line is
its 1/4" npt
I'm pretty sure the nylon line that came with the gauge is 1/8" NPT.
So here's what I've done so far...
But it's leaking! I guess I should have followed the directions and used some thread lock on it.
Just waiting for it to cool off a bit so I can take it apart and re-do it with thread-lock and a bit tighter.
after what you did, do you still have the stock oil sensor in place? think you could take some bigger pics? email them to mr_dynamo@hotmail.com if you could. I think I may be more convinced to use this location...
use teflon tape , or liquid teflon to seal them , dont use thread lock
how did you get the T that close to the tower ?? the 1 i have i couldnt get that close and tighten it up
cmunn99gt wrote:after what you did, do you still have the stock oil sensor in place? think you could take some bigger pics? email them to mr_dynamo@hotmail.com if you could. I think I may be more convinced to use this location...
Click on the pics for the full sized versions. The stock sender is on the end of the tee, while the line to the gauge is coming straight off the top of it.
[quote=97cavie24ls(JDM&00s/c sedans™)]use teflon tape , or liquid teflon to seal them , dont use thread lock
how did you get the T that close to the tower ?? the 1 i have i couldnt get that close and tighten it up
I used blue Thread Lock. Is that going to cause me problems?? Should I take them off and use the teflon?
The tee was just barely able to clear the other cam tower when screwing it in.
Yes, it will cause you problems if you want to get the fittings off one day
Well they will still come off, just require more effort to do so. Take the fittings off, clean the thread lock off and use Teflon tape or paste
Jason
99 Z24
#25 to register on JBO!!
Racers Edge
Johnny Mack Turbo Systems
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I have the electrical sender, and its kinda bulky, is there a way to extend the 'T' out about an inch or so? might make it easier for me...
It's the blue thread lock so it's not supposed to be permanent.
If I spring a leak again, I'll take it apart and put the teflon on. In fact, I'm going to go out and buy some just in case I need it and to use in the future. Definitely a good thing to have around.
well the fittings are brass , which is a fairly soft metal , and might strip trying to pull it apart later down the road
cmunn99gt , you can put the aftermarket sender on the end where he has his stock 1 and put the stock 1 where his plastic line is
I'm not sure there's room for the stock one straight up the top there. You could certainly put a 90 degree elbow there though and put the stock one pointing outwards.
went to install my guage today, electrical oil pressure with the sender. noticed that the axle was relatively close the the sender, as well directly below it. so once the car was off the jack, and say I were to drive over some bumps, I feared it would strike the sender, so I took it off. I'm going to 'T' the cam sensor outlet...
I didn't realize the electrical senders were so big!
That is they way i did mine i changed to and electrical one after some time i started getting some oil leaking in my car. That had to go.
Wild Weasel wrote:I'm pretty sure the nylon line that came with the gauge is 1/8" NPT.
So here's what I've done so far...
But it's leaking! I guess I should have followed the directions and used some thread lock on it. Just waiting for it to cool off a bit so I can take it apart and re-do it with thread-lock and a bit tighter.
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Not sure why everyone wants to T and keep the stock sender no need for it.
H&H Motorsports
Jacksonville, Fl
as a backup maybe? if the sender fails, I'd like to be able to rely on something else. weasel, I have a question. what size fitting goes into the cam tower housing. is it 1/8" or 1/4" inch.
the oil pressure sensor on my autometer is about 2/3rds smaller than his
i have yet to put in in my car though
