i know some have posted the throttle arms isnt the same on the 56mm tb from the 2.3's as the 2200
a quick fix would be to simply change the throttle arms a bit, remove from one and install on the 56mm, i just did it and its a direct fix
Sweet, I don't know why I haven't tried that yet!
<img src=http://ourworld.cs.com/jwithspray/Nitrosig13303.JPG>
98+ 2.2 ohv
__________________________________________
Quote:
Originally posted by MSD
I have an 03 5-speed Cavy, and when I race.. I shift at 6300-6500. That method (coupled with the fact that the guy probably couldn't drive for @!#$) allowed me to keep up with/have a slight lead on an 04 Mustang GT.
wow read my post and that made me seem really stupid. what i meant was what saize TB are they please disregard that last one.
"
boobs now with Riboflabin"
what size are the 2.4l
DRIVE HARD OR DONT DRIVE AT ALL!!!
Pretty sure the TB is 52mm stock for the 2.4 as well. everyone should just go to the 56 if they're still on the stocker. Visit your local junker!
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man that might clear up the problems i have with mine its always has a high idle 1400-1500 rpms and then if i blib the trottle real fast it will settle down to the normal 900 or so rpm.
Will this fix my problem, and then i would be able to hook my cruise back up.
Got any pics on how this is done?
Mike
1992 GMC Sonoma GT #492. Oh, Its just a stock V6!
1999 Cavalier Coupe, daily driver, 2200/M5. Mods and pics are in my registry.
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Im premium since January, but why doesnt it say that?????
yeah... i have some, just need to scan and upload, will try to get it done tonight.
is there a part numner for the 2.3 tb?
Phlatcav wrote:is there a part numner for the 2.3 tb?
go to
http://www.car-part.com i got my 2.3 for used for $55 shipped I didn't have too much trouble with the throttle cable bracket...it just gets in the way a bit but i just turned it around.
ok granted i didnt snap shots through out the whole ordeal, it'll still show what i did....
this is how the plastic rotor is held on the arm....
<img src="http://www.angelfire.com/md/TOWSONFTBLPLYR/arm1.jpg">
basiclly just a metal collet, with a guide nibs on the inside for the plastic. putting both TB side by side, with the throttle body upright, the rod in the middle line up exactly the same although the throttle body plastic cable rotors are different.
<img src="http://www.angelfire.com/md/TOWSONFTBLPLYR/arm2.jpg">
above is the rotor shaft from the 2200 TB. near the bottom you can see where the plastic rotor arm, stopper arm for idle adjustment, and spring go. basically theres a end piece thats not bolted on, but if you look at the side of the TB, it just looks like the wide end of a nail. you will have to dremel the edges down for all the stuff to slide off.
<img src="http://www.angelfire.com/md/TOWSONFTBLPLYR/arm3.jpg">
initially my theort was that i could get away with sliding in the 2200 rotor and be done.... no go. the rod is in the position as if the plate was closed. as you can see near the top the part that fits into the TPS is angled towards the left. on the 56mm tb, its angled flat, and in line with the throttle plate bolts.
<img src="http://www.angelfire.com/md/TOWSONFTBLPLYR/arm4.jpg">
once i got the 56mm throttle rotor off and the new one on, i readded the little leverage arms. dont really need em, but they help act as a washer to keep the throttle rotor arm on. then i drilled and tapped a hole in the center of the throttle rod and secured it all back on with a screw and washer. used some loctite as well. blue.
thing is once you remove the end cap piece by grinding it down (remember how i said it was like a nail above) you can either weld a new end stop on, which might risk the plastic melting, or drill and tap a screw in there, so you can remove it, if ever needed again.
all the parts still line up on the rectangular part of the shaft, the screw is just to keep it on.
<img src="http://www.angelfire.com/md/TOWSONFTBLPLYR/arm5.jpg">
also another issue for some, with auto transmissions. the auto trans has a line that reaches to the TB for vacuum changes. for here i drilled out a 3/16 hole and installed a 3/16 outer diameter brass pipe. so now i have all the nipples for all the sensors. jb weld to make sure it goes no where and also air tight on the vaccum. its the pipe to the left and lower
theres usually this logo that looks like a sundial there. on the 2200 TB theres a pipe there, but on the 56mm there isnt.
<img src="http://www.angelfire.com/md/TOWSONFTBLPLYR/arm6.jpg">
final pic with the 56mm tb and the 2200 rotor arm in the right posistion. rained all yesterday this is goin on today
I did the EXACT same thing to put the 56mm TB on my 2.4L engine, only I used the parts from my 2.4L 52mm TB.
Did not know it would work on the 2200.
-da chinchilla
<img src="http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/jiggamon/avatar15569_2.gif">
yup, oddly enough it does work
jut got back from a test drive no codes, no bad stuff. more pull. i happy.
one thing of note for auto 2200's, you MAY have to elongate the holes in the throttle cable bracket.
i know i had to a decent bit on the upper part of the bracket which uses the longest screw...
2 of the screws you WILL NOT use... the long and 1 of the 3 short ones...
also if you dont have a bolt for the hole on where the long screw used to go, a shorter m6x10 bolt will be needed to firmly secure the throttle cable bracket.
other than that...an easy fix.
does any one know of a biiger TB for the eco from another car. since it looked like event finsihed the last topic
"
boobs now with Riboflabin"
Jcavi wrote:does any one know of a biiger TB for the eco from another car. since it looked like event finsihed the last topic
dont quote me on it, but some with 2.4s, like karo i thought were using ls1 TB;s.... might be a custom setup, but thats prob a step up if you can get em to fit.
small update:
once you mod the bracket, the throttle body does sit a bit lower under the bracket than the stock TB...
some MAY have to adjust the TV cable (and no not like hbo,mtv2 cable) that have automatic transmissions.
if you have an auto this is usually the cable with the square peg. if its too tight, the valve that goes into the transmission may cause shifting slightly early.
theres a post on adjusting it
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=11&i=85876&t=85876
basically its easy as pressin a button and rotating the throttle lever a few times...
this if for automatics though.
I heard it makes a different noise on the 2200, like a hissing? Im thinking of buying a 2200 one and just boring it out myself.
any throttle body will do that, its air passing open areas, kinda like when you whistle.
the larger the TB, the larger the sound.
i've got a 2.3 tb on my 2200; i think the hissing noise sounds good
great write up event
I just made a parts request for the 2.3 TB thru carpart.com
it'll be a nice addition until the boost and 62mm come into play
TheFlyingSquirrel (PJ) wrote:great write up event
I just made a parts request for the 2.3 TB thru carpart.com
it'll be a nice addition until the boost and 62mm come into play
notta prob
how much are they chargin? your close so if you cant get one or need one, next time i hit the auto yards i can get one. i;d only charge what i paid for it. usually under 30$
thats if its expensive online
when they quote me I'll let you know
thanks event I really appreciate it
I have a 2.3l throttle body I got off Ebay from a 1991 Chevy Beretta GTZ with a High Output (DOHC) 2.3L Quad 4 Engine. Not going to put it in now. I ended up paying $28.96 with shipping. You can have this one for that price plus whatever shipping costs to you. Let me know. Looks in good shape, but I haven't had it in. Was from a rear ended Beretta.
is this quick fix required or no? Like do some have to do this, and some don't or what? I have one on the way from ^^^^ and was just wondering if i'm gonna have to do this. thanks.
