great DIY, this will come in very handy when i have a nice day out.
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Machzel08 wrote:My Cars slower than your Car!! wrote:Borsty: I think I got it at NAPA. I've had it for a while, so I'm not sure.
Machzel: I use the tire tool that came with the car.
Brandoson: It does it whether I torque them or not.
Thanks for the suggestions/comments guys.
That tire tool is called a TIRE IRON....just to let you know
Gotcha. I didn't see the earlier post.
Tire iron, tire tool, its the same thing.
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Just a thought, in the picture it shows your replacement stud being zinc plated, try using a stud that isn't plated. If the stud isn't being stressed relieved properly after the plating process that can kill the strength of the stud. Also if it is a bad plating job what you could have is some of the plating chipping off and binding with the threads on the nut and causing your stud to break.
[quote=97cavie24ls(JDM cav sedan™)]
and ive been able to get the new stud in with out taking the hub off also
I would love to know how you did this because I can not get the t55 bits to get unscrew the hub
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD
AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
WHITECAVY wrote:[quote=97cavie24ls(JDM cav sedan™)]
and ive been able to get the new stud in with out taking the hub off also
I would love to know how you did this because I can not get the t55 bits to get unscrew the hub
How do you mean? You can't get them to break loose, or you can't get to them?
I cant get them to break loose
I guess im going to have to get a reducer to fit my 1/2 inch air impact gun so I can use my t55 3/8 bit.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD
AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Eff WD40, try this stuff called PB Blaster. It stinks to high heaven, but it's ten times better to break rusted parts loose. Spray it down really good, let it set for a few minutes, then take a hammer and an old screwdriver and peck each bolt a little bit to set in some vibrations on the bolt. The vibrations will work the Blaster in between the parts and will eventually let them break loose. You may have to do it a couple times, but it'll eventually work.
Be carefull with air guns on frozen parts, but I'm sure you know this already.
^^ Yeah thats what I used is that PB blaster.. Ill just try again tomorrow because ive been working on it for 3 hours now lol... My back hurts, I quit ha. But thanks for your response.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
mine did this today when i was changing the brakes i would have figured it out but knowing how to do it in advance saved me some time thanks
i did the same thing to my 97 one day and about 3 weeks later my wheel bearing went out.... not worth doing IMO. i just replaced the bearing and it had new studs on it.... if i break another one... i'll just replace the bearing again....
Thanks for the post!!!!!!! I just broke a damn wheel stud in the front drivers side. I've never had a prob with my 99, but my 2k has broken about 4 now. Just got my sideskirts painted, I get ready to slap them on, and wham, broken wheel stud. Always something. Ah well, got some work to do tommorow.
Thanks for the post.
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PB Blaster works great if you let it soak in to penetrate.
When I changed the rear shocks on my g/f's 97 Sunfire, I sprayed the PB Blaster on all the nuts and bolts the day before removal, with a few more reapplications the night before. All the nuts loosened easily.
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PB Blaster is the greatest stuff ever invented!!
I just did this for my car its really easy to change them
Well, you probably could have sold that write-up to a magazine. Very well done.
I live in Southern Ontario, where road salt really speeds up rust, and I have found these cars seem to rust especially quick. I coat my lug studs, rear brake drums and wheels with anti-seize compound to prevent the rust from building up and seizing upon removal. The back wheel froze solid to the hub in about 4 weeks this year, and I needed a 15 lb sledge and a 2X4 to break it free (the pry bar bent, so I had to resort to this, or, get out the torch).
I would suggest if you are loosening the nut and feel it bind, tighten the lug again, and clean the thread with a die. Even if you can't get the die close enough to the wheel to clean it 100 percent, you may eliminate enough resistance to prevent it from snapping.
So as long as I dont disconnect the brake lines from the caliper, i shouldn't have to bleed them correct? So I would just tie the caliper to the spring with wire and thats that, after just put the caliper on and "bob's your uncle" sort of thing.
Awesome right up! I need to get this done myself. I bet I'll break one more stud taking the wheel off though, those damn things are on there tight!
Now one of my studs is doing it again, but this time I have gorilla nuts on the studs. Sorry....eh, gorilla LUGnuts...lol.
Anyone know where I can buy the same lugs? They take a "key" that fits around the nut, and the nut just has a bunch of grooves all the way around it.
Neutiquam erro.
now it's aftermarket....
explain what these rings are please, sir.
Neutiquam erro.
Some people have an issue, especially with aftermarket rims, Where all of there studs will break either all at once or one at a time under certain conditions.
Do a search, its been discussed.
BTW, i suggest you read this:
www.wildweasel.ca/j-body/ HowTo/wheelinstall.asp
http://members.rankmyride.com/djtorello
DUDE YOU JUST MADE MY DAY!!!! Now i can finaly replace that damn stud. cool DIY. i love the org, lots of help "and some healthy BSing to go with it ^_^
thanks alot
2.0 H.O *by accedent o.0
frank.... with my gorillaz lug nuts i keep breaking studs tooo... maybe its the lugs? when i had stockers on there i never broke one.... hrmmmm
Sorry to necro, but the pics are not working!
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