Hey Everyone,
I'm a huge proponent of preventative maintenance, and so far, after owning my 2002 Cavalier Z24 for the past 18 Months I've only had 2 problems with the car, one of which was my fault because I was beating on the car. Below you will see a list of everything I've done to the car since the day I've owned it and I'd like to know if there's anything I should concentrate on next, especially anything that's prone to breaking on the 2.4 engine or on Cavaliers.
Replaced / New:
• New Front Headlight Lamp Housings
• New Front Headlights (Sylvania Silverstar Ultras)
• New Front Foglights (Sylvania Silverstar Ultra)
• 4 New Yokohama Avid ENVigor P205/55R16 All-Season Tires (changed last month)
• New ACDelco Double Platnium Sparkplugs (Changed last summer)
• Practically New Interstate Megatron II MT-75 Battery (Swapped from another totaled car last summer)
• New Rear Drum Brakes and Shoes (Adjusted when needed)
• New Front Pads and Rotors (installed last spring by the small dealer I purchased the car from)
• New Trunk, Reverse and Interior Lights
• New Fuel Pressure Regulator (Randomly broke, replaced with a new one)
• New Oil Sending Unit (Exploded...)
• New Saturn Manual Transmission Lubricant (changed two weeks ago, Getrag F23 5-Speed)
• New Driver and Passenger Side Window Buttons
• New Coolant? (Not flushed - A coolant hose was leaking and was replaced, so I'm assuming more coolant was added)
• New Coolant Hose of some sort
• BG Fuel and Air Induction Service (applied this spring)
• New Radiator Fan
• New Front Coil Springs (OE Quality)
Regular Maintenance:
• Castrol GTX High Mileage and Fram ToughGuard 6x Oil Filter every 3000 Miles
• Tires Checked once a week to be maintained at 32 PSI
• AEM DryFlow filter checked and sprayed with air compressor once in a while
• BG 44k added to tank every six months
I can't change the fuel filter, because it's rusted onto the line. Valve Cover Gasket seems like a terrible job to do, and struts are something I plan for the future, but as of right now the car rides fine and no fluid is visible on the struts. Other than that, I'm not sure what else there is to change. I'm sure my engine or car is known for having particular parts breaking, wondering If I've missed any.
Side Note: I have read that in 2002 new oiling passages and an improved water pump were added to the LD9 2.4 Quad 4, so a new Water Pump seems like a waste of time.
Rich Grayo Jr. wrote:use a real oil filter and you're on your way to a very long lasting car.
Truth. Far better quality filters can be had for the same or less money.
Also clean your air filter properly, compressed air can damage the filter media, but if you insist, blow from the inside out.
Alcolawl wrote:Side Note: I have read that in 2002 new oiling passages and an improved water pump were added to the LD9 2.4 Quad 4, so a new Water Pump seems like a waste of time.
It's not an easy job.. just replace it when it fails and change the timing chain, guides, and thermostat while you are in there.
omg.. I just watched a video comparing a few well-known brand oil filters... Fram?... I'm actually like scared for my engine now. I was almost convinced to go out and buy a new oil filter right there, but I have an oil change coming up in 1600 miles. :/
Anyways, yeah Thirsty, I thought If I ever had to go into my engine I'd spend a lot on replacing what you mentioned and the Valve Cover Gasket. Anything else I should replace?
If you are changing your oil/filter every 3,000 miles do not panic. I used vairous filters throughout the life of my car including FRAM and never had an issue. That being said after similar findings/reading i chose not to use FRAM in the future over some other brands, but that is a personal choice. It looks like you are doing a great job keeping that car in great shape, well done.
Our fuel filters always look alot worse then they actually are so I'd do that since im sure if its rusted, it's probably original from 2002. Valve cover gaskets are simple on that motor if i remember it correctly(i own the 2.2 so not sure), but the most is happening is you're leaking oil, but with 2.4s theyre known for spinning rod bearings from lack of oil so id always be checking the oil.
On our motors, usually the Cam cover gaskets aren't bad, but its the Cam Tower Gaskets that are a PITA as mine is leaking too and I just won't replace them because you do have to loosen the chain and pull the cams and such. Plus I'm replacing my motor due to the notorious rod knock I have developed in the last two weeks. But other then that keep doing what your doing. The fuel filters are usually harder since they do rust on. Worse case senario, you can always cut the lines and use a generic filter with rubber hose ends, but that's not really suggested. But if u strip or twist the lines, that's usually the way to go instead of trying to replace fuel lines. But that's just me. Other then the rod knocks that usually, not always, happen in these motors, there's nothing else you can do. I changed my oil every 3k and used the best Napa oil filter I can get and I still got it only with 126k on the engine. Pretty much at this point drive her till she pops. Good job tho, on all the stuff you have done and great looking car!
you may check your belts hoses and fronth end for play otner than that sounds good to me and don't worry about using fram oil filters arent that important oil is far more important and the best filter you can ask for. I use fram because the 2.2 filters a pain and fram has the rough exterior. they do fine by me but there is better quality filters
and you can let your oil go 5000 safely. just to grt your moneys worth my manual says 7500 but 5000 is my limit
dakota sutherland wrote:you may check your belts hoses and fronth end for play otner than that sounds good to me and don't worry about using fram oil filters arent that important oil is far more important and the best filter you can ask for. I use fram because the 2.2 filters a pain and fram has the rough exterior. they do fine by me but there is better quality filters
and you can let your oil go 5000 safely. just to grt your moneys worth my manual says 7500 but 5000 is my limit
The auto 2.2s you actually have to take off the passenger wheel and cram in there, the manual transmission leaves soo much space, you lay under and it's right there.
yea mines a stick its not real hard but the grippyness makes it easier. its in a dumb location though leaks on the exhaust when you pull it off
95LsCoupe wrote:dakota sutherland wrote:you may check your belts hoses and fronth end for play otner than that sounds good to me and don't worry about using fram oil filters arent that important oil is far more important and the best filter you can ask for. I use fram because the 2.2 filters a pain and fram has the rough exterior. they do fine by me but there is better quality filters
and you can let your oil go 5000 safely. just to grt your moneys worth my manual says 7500 but 5000 is my limit
The auto 2.2s you actually have to take off the passenger wheel and cram in there, the manual transmission leaves soo much space, you lay under and it's right there.
I would have to disagree, I have owned a couple 2.2 LN2 autos and I never had to pull the wheel off. If that was the case jiffy lube would be pulling the wheel off everytime. If you turn the wheel (I can't recall which way tho) and reach in like that you can get to it. I never had thaft much of a issue with them, sure not stupid easy but very doable with the wheel on the car. But that's IMO. Seems like your doing more work then neccesary to me.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Friday, June 24, 2011 8:54 PM
yea I think its easy as long as the filter wasnt put on to tight. I find fram is easiest just because of the grip ive taken them all apart and in my experience fram was just as good as anything else. the ends are cardboard but who cares it works fine . theyve always worked for me
The purolator pureone filters are completely coated in the grip coat. It's easier to grab the side of the filter than the end.
JBO Stickers! Get yours today!
I havent seen them where I live ill keep my eyes open though
Purolator, Wix, STP and I also like API, they seem like good quality, very similar to the purolator, but from all the research I've done thus far, it seems API makes their own filters, which is odd.
i know napa gold's have the grip material on them and they are wix filters.
i use the napa gold line filter (wix) and napa fully synthetic oil (valvoline)
spray the threads of the fuel filter with some pb blaster and let it sit for a few mintues, then use a line wrench to help prevent rounding the nut off. just a thought if you wanted to try and tackle that fuel filter
Mike Z A.K.A SNEEZY wrote:95LsCoupe wrote:dakota sutherland wrote:you may check your belts hoses and fronth end for play otner than that sounds good to me and don't worry about using fram oil filters arent that important oil is far more important and the best filter you can ask for. I use fram because the 2.2 filters a pain and fram has the rough exterior. they do fine by me but there is better quality filters
and you can let your oil go 5000 safely. just to grt your moneys worth my manual says 7500 but 5000 is my limit
The auto 2.2s you actually have to take off the passenger wheel and cram in there, the manual transmission leaves soo much space, you lay under and it's right there.
I would have to disagree, I have owned a couple 2.2 LN2 autos and I never had to pull the wheel off. If that was the case jiffy lube would be pulling the wheel off everytime. If you turn the wheel (I can't recall which way tho) and reach in like that you can get to it. I never had thaft much of a issue with them, sure not stupid easy but very doable with the wheel on the car. But that's IMO. Seems like your doing more work then neccesary to me.
turn the wheel all the way to the drivers side, then come up from the passenger side wheel well between the subframe and fender liner.
as per maintenance, sounds like you're doing a fine job. as previously stated, i would put the car on jack stands and check the front end for play, otherwise drive it till something breaks.
